Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Guo Pei: a fashion designer that knows what Chinese design is

Guo Pei: a fashion designer that knows what Chinese design is

designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 2
On November the 6th, Guo Pei, a famous Chinese fashion designer, presented her new collection before the China Fashion Week audience in Beijing.
Her wonderful world of dresses enchanted the visitors and confirmed her top-tier position on the international haute-couture scale.designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 3
designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 4
designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 5
Born in 1967, Guo Pei has worked for a wide range of fashion companies before becoming chief designer for the newly established Tianma (Horse Of Heaven) in 1989. Lead by a talented designer, this clothing company quickly became one of China’s most popular women labels. During 6 years at Tianma, 250 of her garments were produced, totalling some 400 000 items.
designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 6
designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1
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designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 8
designer guo pei beijing fashion design week 2009 - 1 9
In 1995, she moved to the Milano Fashion Company Limited, a Taiwanese-American joint venture. She kept working on her own independent collections by the time she was there and then resigned and established her own company in 1996. Meiguifang (Mayflower) was born.
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In 1997, Guo Pei was named one of China’s top ten fashion designers. She now works in her studio in the D zone of Dashanzi in Beijing.
Guo Pei portrait

DIY Ombre Tights

About a week ago, I stumbled upon a blog post about ombre tights.  It was love at first sight!  I had to give it try, so I purchased 2 pairs of opaque tights from American Apparel (white and sangria).  Through a series of trial and errors, I figured out how to achieve the ombre dye look on tights.  
My goal was to have a clean gradient transition without any splatter marks or obvious gradient lines.  I also wanted the gradient to fade to black.  For the first dye job, I followed a video tutorial from the Martha Stewart Show on ombre dying (click here).  This is a great video tutorial, however they dye cotton, where as I needed to dye a nylon blend.  The end result was this...
Super cute, however my original intention was to have the gradient fade to black.  Instead, the black dye only darkened the pink color. I believe part of the problem was that I used a RIT dye, which is better for cotton than nylon.  Another possible reason for why it didn't take as well, could have been that I used hot water as opposed to the stove top method that uses boiling water.  From what I now know, nylon needs to be really hot for the dye to take, which is why boiling water is recommended.  So, back to the drawing board I went.
I decided to ask my facebook friends about dying nylon.  Rebekah was kind enough to suggest iDye.  I followed her suggestion and used 2 packets of iDye poly, which is for polyester and nylon.  This worked amazingly well!  
  
Here's how you ombre dye colored tights with iDye poly.
1)  Purchase color opaque tights and 2 packets of iDye poly in black.  As I already mentioned, I used American Apparel tights.   
2)  Decide where you want the color to end and the black to begin.  Being as black is a slimming color, I felt it would look best with black going towards the thighs rather than a color.  I wanted the color transition to begin around mid calf.  You can either pin where you want the color transition to begin or you can eyeball the distance.  I eyeballed it at about 9" from the toe seam of the tights. 
3)  Soak the tights in clear hot water to remove any finish on the tights.  Let it sit there for about 5 minutes or so.
4)  Follow instructions on dye packet for mixing dye over stove top.
5)  Place tights in water waist first.  Be sure not to dip the color portion of the tights into the dye mixture (see pic below).  Lay the color portion over the pot and onto another pot.  You don't want the tights to dangle over the pot, because it may catch fire, which would totally ruin the ombre look =) 
6)  After about 2 minutes of the dying process, gently pull about 1 - 2" of the tights out of the boiling water.  This will help make the gradient less obvious.  However, don't pull too much of the fabric out of the pot, because it will create a blotchy look (see mistakes to avoid pic below).
7)  Once the dying process is completed, turn off the heat and let the fabric cool.  Next, rinse the tights in cold water, making sure to not let the dye run onto the color part of the tights.  It's ok if the color part gets wet and if the black blends with the color portion.  You just don't want it to drip and run onto the color portion.  I held the tights upright with the feet up, while rinsing the excess dye off.
8)  With mild detergent, hand wash your tights.  My washer has a hand wash cycle, which I used.  
9)  Dry your tights.  This next tip is very important - Don't hang dry your tights!  As your tights dry there will likely still be some excess dye leftover.  If you hang dry them, the excess dye will make a lovely line down the tights as gravity pulls the excess water towards the ground.  Trust me I know.  No, I don't want to talk about it =(.  You can lay the tights on a towel to dry.
10)  Voila!  
Mistakes to avoid...
~ Don't lift too much of the tights out of the dye in step 6 or else it will look blotchy as shown below...
~ Don't hang dry or else you will have dye lines running down your tights.
That's about it!  Be sure to share your ombre tight creations here.
Cheers!
Jamie

Monday, October 7, 2013

8 Tips for Underwater Model Photography

Motherland Chronicles #23 - Dive

I was fortunate to have the opportunity to shoot underwater in L.A. recently. It was a very wonderful learning experience and so I wanted to share what I learnt! Keep in mind that these tips may only apply to first-timers like I was, but I hope it makes a good read either way. :D


I love water, if you follow my work you know I love putting models near and into water all the time rather frequently. Imagine how excited I was to finally get to shoot underwater for real~ 

Redemption
Porcelain
Motherland Chronicles #7 - Self Portrait in Water
Having sort-of worked with water in some ways before, I went in to the shoot with some ideas of the type of pictures I wanted to make and planned my shoot based on those. 

If you're not sure about what you want to do, the first thing to do naturally is look up lots of underwater photos and check out the possibilities. Try to pin down a shot or two that you'd like to attempt, then plan your shoot from there.


I'll break the tips down by some of the things I did, difficulties I faced while underwater as well as the stuff Brenda (my wonderful guide/teacher/assistant) adviced me on. A list of the equipment I used can be found at the end of this post. 

Tips for Underwater Model Photography



1.  Research & Plan

Before going in to the details, I want emphasize how important research and planning is. It should be a given, but maybe you're like me and sometimes enjoy just winging a shoot, but in this case, keep in mind that when the environment is completely different, it's not quite like simply testing a new light setup.

There will be discomforts, logistics complications, and unexpected difficulties just because it's not everyday that most of us spend a few hours underwater. So make sure to read up as much as you can. It will help you prepare both mentally and logistically, and make your underwater shooting experience a smooth-sailing and fun one.

Motherland Chronicles #33 - Ascend
2.  Rehearse

This is similar to when I do movement shots -- take a few tests and rehearse the movements with the model in the beginning. This will save time and energy as you're looking at the general picture and feel of the pose and framing. The model won't have to school her expressions or make sure her hair and clothes are perfectly in place, those things take 10 times longer to adjust in water than on land, and it gets cold and uncomfortable in water very quickly. You want to conserve her energy as much as possible.

3. Communication

After every couple of dives, give feedback and show the model pictures of what you like and don't. Point out what are great and what can be improved, so she will know to make note on how to better the pose for you. 

4. On Sinking & Floating

Most of the time you'll want to sink for flexibility in angles, but it's difficult and often you'll end up floating more.

Let go of all your breath before you hold it so there's less air in your lungs. Tying some weights to your waist will help staying down easier. And depending on the model's pose, sometimes a weight for her helps as well.

I had weights behind my back initially, but found that moving them to the front helps my dive so I shifted them later.

5. Staying Still/Moving for Shots Will Be Tricky

Some photographers like shooting with a tripod, I like moving around to change my angles and framing organically. This unfortunately doesn't translate well underwater.

It's both difficult to stay still and move in water because, well, it's hard to be still when you're floating, and hard to move/paddle when your hands are occupied with the camera.

The best way I've found for myself is to simply decide a course of movement, go for it, then press the shutter many many times. :D

6. Camera Focusing Issues and Loss of Colors on Model's Skin

This usually happens due to loss of light underwater and being far from the model. Brenda overcomes this by using a 10-17mm on a crop sensor camera so I could move in closer (very close!). 

The problem that arises from this is that every little movement distorts and changes the composition drastically. I use the 70-200mm 95% of the time for my work, so it definitely took some getting used to to shoot with a lens so much wider for a complete shoot. I still want to explore using a long lens underwater in the future, hope it's possible. :(

7. Have Extra Hands

Logistics of shooting underwater is painful. Every little adjustment takes a lot longer than it would on the ground. Depending on your light setup, just for clothes/fabrics alone I think you'll need at least 2 assistants underwater.

I only had Brenda so we had one side of the model covered. I ended up using my feet to adjust the fabrics while trying to stay in place for shots sometimes, it's definitely not ideal and more assistants would've helped the shoot move faster. 

I also attempted directing+paddling with my left hand, but all I managed was hurt my right pinkie finger for trying to balance the entire weight of the camera and a strobe on it. :( 

From our behind-the-scenes video.

8. Shoot Fast or Get Cold

It isn't too bad if the weather is warm and there's lots of sun. But if it's overcast or your pool's in the shade, the water's going to feel pretty cold for your model for long-session shooting.

Get some large towels and bathrobes and keep them by the pool. If you're going to take some time reviewing photos, let your model get out of the water to warm up a little. It's easier for the photographer here because we can keep some body heat in with a wet suit. But don't push yourself if you start getting cold too! Remember to take a break as well.

Most importantly remember to have fun! Shooting underwater can be a little frustrating at times, but it's definitely quite magical, not to mention addictive.


Last but not least, a mini-guide made with thanks to the awesome people on Facebook! - 
- Find water.
- Do not breathe the water.
- Do not put camera into water unless it's waterproof or has a housing.
- Learn how to swim.

And that's it! I hope this gives a bit of insight to the shoot along with my behind-the-scenes. If you think of any other points or questions please feel free to ask! :D

Once again, special thanks to Jessica, Brenda and Brian for making this shoot happen.


Equipment List:
Housing: Sea and Sea MDX300
Camera: Nikon D300
Lights: Sea and Sea YS-250 strobes
Lens: Tokina 10-17mm
Cables: Custom made by Reef Photo in Florida

Monday, September 30, 2013

37 Over-The-Top Evening Gowns From The 2013 Miss World Fashion Show


In the “Top Model” preliminary round of this year’s Miss World pageant, the 127 contestants showed off their very bestest runway walks.

It’s an important round of the competition: this year’s newly-crowned 2013 Miss World, Miss Philippines, also won first place here. (Even though her gown was sort of horrible, it must be said.)
 

Anyway, back to the glitter.


All 127 contestants also showed off some ridiculous, overtly-glam evening gowns — courtesy of “48 of Indonesia’s elite fashion designers.” If an Indonesian version of Project Runway doesn’t already exists, it NEEDS to get filming. All the designers worked with a “Byzantine concept” in mind, though whether that’s a reference to the Byzantine era or a drag bar named Byzantium is not entirely clear. Either way, the exquisite designs apparently highlight “the very best of Indonesian fashion.” And quite frankly, I’m convinced. ENJOY.

1. Miss Lebanon.

Miss Lebanon.

2. Miss Brazil.

 
A top 10 “Top Model” finalist.

3. Miss St Kitts & Nevis.

Miss St Kitts & Nevis.

4. Miss India.

Miss India.

Incidentally, Miss India will forever hold a special place in my heart for basically wearing Blanche Devereaux’s wallpaper.

Incidentally, Miss India will forever hold a special place in my heart for basically wearing Blanche Devereaux's wallpaper.

5. Miss Costa Rica.

Miss Costa Rica.

6. Miss Martinique.

 

7. Miss Fiji.

Miss Fiji.

8. Miss Honduras.

Miss Honduras.

9. Miss Panama.

Miss Panama.

10. Miss Czech Republic.

Miss Czech Republic.

11. Miss Latvia, who’s actually modeling her own business cards. You can pluck them off her bustier.

Miss Latvia, who's actually modeling her own business cards. You can pluck them off her bustier.
Ok not really but that’s an idea I’m definitely about to patent.

12. Miss Mauritius.

Miss Mauritius.

13. Miss Cameroon.

 
A top 10 “Top Model” finalist.

14. Miss Kyrgyzstan.

Miss Kyrgyzstan.

15. Miss Italy, who is wondering what she did to deserve these shoulder ruffles.

Miss Italy, who is wondering what she did to deserve these shoulder ruffles.
A top 10 “Top Model” finalist.

16. Miss Uganda.

Miss Uganda.

17. Miss People’s Republic of China.

 

18. Miss Colombia.

Miss Colombia.

19. Miss Belarus.

 

20. Miss Equatorial Guinea.

Miss Equatorial Guinea.

21. Miss Namibia.

Miss Namibia.

22. And Miss Greece — with a bonus back shot of Miss Namibia’s look.

And Miss Greece — with a bonus back shot of Miss Namibia's look.

23. Miss Singapore.

Miss Singapore.

24. Miss Barbados.

Miss Barbados.

25. Miss Kazakhstan.

 

26. Miss Argentina.

Miss Argentina.
It wouldn’t be a proper pageant without arbitrary peacock feathers, after all.

27. Miss Denmark.

Miss Denmark.

28. Miss Curacao.

Miss Curacao.

29. Miss Croatia.

Miss Croatia.
These are (not) leftover tablecloths from a Fourth of July picnic.

30. Miss Guatemala.

Miss Guatemala.

31. Miss Mexico, and a bunch of audience members who DGAF about her couture-style finery.

Miss Mexico, and a bunch of audience members who DGAF about her couture-style finery.

32. Miss France

 
A top 10 “Top Model” finalist. (Also the competition’s eventual first runner-up.)

33. Miss Nicaragua.

Miss Nicaragua.

34. Miss South Sudan, who is stunning.

 
A top 10 “Top Model” finalist.

35. Miss Albania.

Miss Albania.

36. Miss Samoa.

Miss Samoa.

37. And Miss Wales. Who even knows what’s happening here.

And Miss Wales. Who even knows what's happening here.
(Miss Wales sure doesn’t.)